The Comparison, in One Table
| Perfume | Essential oil | |
|---|---|---|
| What it is | A composed blend of natural and synthetic materials | A single concentrated plant extract |
| Usual base | Alcohol, or a carrier oil in perfume oils | Used neat, or diluted in a carrier oil |
| Longevity | Built to last, with top, heart and base notes | Usually fades faster |
| Skin risks | Fragrance allergens, in some people | Allergy; phototoxicity with some citrus oils |
| Regulated as | A cosmetic | A cosmetic or a drug, depending on the claims made |
Natural Is Not the Same as Gentle
Allergic contact dermatitis to essential oils is a delayed allergic reaction when the oils touch the skin. DermNet lists tea tree, ylang-ylang, lemongrass, sandalwood, clove and jasmine among the oils that commonly cause it, and notes that the allergen may be a component that forms as the oil oxidizes — which is why old oils can be worse.
Some citrus oils add a second risk: phototoxicity. Bergamot oil contains more bergapten than any other citrus essential oil, and compounds like it are activated by UVA light, which can cause a burn-like reaction on sun-exposed skin. The fragrance industry's IFRA standards limit bergamot oil to 0.4% in leave-on products, while bergapten-free bergamot oil shows no phototoxic response. The FDA also warns that certain citrus oils can be harmful in cosmetics, particularly on skin exposed to the sun.
Perfume is not risk-free either: the FDA notes that some components of fragrance formulas can cause allergic reactions in some people. The difference is that a perfume is formulated for skin at set concentrations, while an essential oil is easy to apply too strong. For oil-based perfume, see perfume oils.
If You Want to Wear Essential Oils
- Never apply them neat. Use a pre-diluted product, or dilute in a carrier oil such as jojoba.
- Patch-test on a small area for a couple of days before wider use — allergic reactions to essential oils are delayed, so they can take time to appear.
- Keep citrus oils off skin that will see sun, especially bergamot, unless the oil is labeled bergapten-free.
- Use fresh oils and keep bottles tightly closed: DermNet notes the allergen can be a component that forms as the oil oxidizes.
- Stop if your skin reacts, and see a dermatologist if a rash persists.
If you like the idea of essential oils but want a scent that lasts and evolves, a composed perfume oil or an eau de parfum is usually the better buy — and if fragrance of any kind irritates your skin, see our sensitive skin guide.
